We just got back from a fabulous trip to Komodo. You can read this latest Komodo Expedition 2025 Trip Report below. The front cover features a rather old and wisened-looking Loggerhead Turtle we observed at Karang Makasar. Among the many highlights were cleaning Manta Rays, walking with Komodo Dragons, cavorting with whale sharks, snorkelling beneath a volcano, swimming in a forested pool under a waterfall and of course, the impossible swimming deer!
Last spots available, November Blue Whales, Spice Islands & Misool
Introduction
We began our trip in Labuan Bajo harbour, an hour from Bali. A lot has changed in the eight years since I last embarked from here. Small boats buzz to and fro, ferrying tourists to an armada of liveaboards. I counted over a hundred. So one of the things Pindito does very well is positioning us in the right places and times for wildlife, when it can feel like we are on our own. We rarely share sites with anyone else.
Hills, islands & dragons
At any time Komodo is a beautiful place. This year, it seems to have been unseasonally wet and windy. Strong southeast winds generated plenty of moisture. Clouds billowed over the forested hilltops of Komodo and Rinca, and the air was cool. Unky skies made for dramatic lighting against the ochre hillsides and blue sea.
The winds aren’t a problem when we’re cruising north of the mainland though. We can duck behind islands into coves with sheltered coral gardens. The little drizzle we did have, suited us well, as we coincided it with a land trip to see Komodo Dragons before the heat kicked in.
Turtles
Manta Rays are one of the species we strive to encounter though it’s not always possible. There are many ‘cleaning stations’ across the whole region where they regularly occur. Among the most popular of these is Karang Makasar. This is a huge reef where currents run up and down over a plateau.
The water here is generally clear so both divers and snorkelers can often get great views but it’s also quite crowded with pleasure boats. We didn’t see Mantas at Karang Makasar but we did encounter three species of turtle: Green Turtle, Hawksbill Turtle and Loggerhead Turtle.
Manta Rays
Instead, we returned to Mauam as one manta had appeared near divers a day before. We waited for another liveaboard to clear away from the site and the moment we entered the water, the mantas were there. The snorkelers looked down while the divers looked up and two mantas spent the whole hour cavorting over a reef top. It was an absolutely magical moment.
Coral Reefs
It’s the diversity of reefs in this area that’s stunning. In other parts of eastern Indonesia the reefs are more diverse but with less space between them. Here, you’ve got everthing from black sand and coral rubble to stony reefs, coral gardens, flower corals and soft corals. Which means everywhere you look, there is a different assemblage of fish. Some of the reefs are sheltered or flat, others steep or exposed to the deep ocean.
Sangeang Volcano
West from Komodo is Sangeang, a 1,900m high twin-capped volcano surrounded by coral. The reefs here are quite different to elsewhere, as they are situated on black sand. This makes them a smorgasbord of weird creatures like colourful nudibranchs. We spent a morning here before continuing towards Saleh Bay.
Whale Sharks
Thanks to the wildlife, our host’s amazing experience and our flexible timing, we managed over five hours in the water with sharks … just us. We’ve been visiting here for almost nine years but it’s only recently started to become popular and advertised. Which means it can be crowded. To be honest, it makes little difference to the sharks. It’s just not much fun for visitors though when there are five liveaboards parked literally on top of the bagan and nowhere for anyone to swim.
Once again, by being organised and patient, we managed six hours over two days where it was just us and a couple of whale sharks. What was interesting this time, was to observe their behaviour around us. We had two young male sharks each day and the smaller ones were quite curious. The sharks would circle continuously from the bagan back around, eye-balling the swimmers. Once a larger individual came along the whole dynamic changed … there is a definite pecking order!
Moyo Waterfall
And who could forget the waterfall on Moyo! Spectacular. We’ve only just started working with this local village. They do a traditional dance and arrange vehicles to take us to the waterfall. So when the timing works and we pass through this area, it’s nice to stop by and support them. Not to mention the fact that the waterfall is simply stunning.
Once again this journey was a success due to many factors. The main one being our wonderful guests whose joviality and sense of adventure made this another trip to remember.
Find out more by visiting https://wildiaries-travel.com/
