Today was our first day in Ambon on board a trip with Pindito and Wildiaries. Thanks to flight schedules being not quite as reliable as they used to be, we found ourselves with a day in hand. So we organised a tour to take us snorkelling with the sacred eels of Waii.
This was particularly interesting for me. My new book How to Survive the Next 100 Years: Lessons from Nature launches with a story about the Budj Bim which I covered in a past blog. Eels are sacred in many parts of the world. Once upon a time they were responsible for massive nutrient enrichment of our lowlands. They keep vegetation healthy, provide food and clean water. It’s no accident that eels here in Ambon are worshipped. They undertake epic migrations between land and sea. While they remain a mystery, their importance for all people is no coincidence.
The sacred eels in Waii
Arriving in Waii we were met by the villagers and introduced to 19 year-old Shinta. Shinta took over the role as guardian of the eels from her grandfather. That bloodline has been around for centuries. Shinta is the only person allowed to feed the eels. She’s shy but cares for them … loves them even. Having visitors helps the village maintain their tradition but feeding the eels is done slowly, carefully and with respect.
Waii means ‘water’ in Ambonese. When we arrive kids are playing in the river and the village is bathing. We’re joined by throngs of ladies returning from church. Christianity and Islam exist alongside each other here, along with the customs and traditions of eel-keeping.
Keep the eels safe and healthy and it means the water is clean. The relationship with eels almost certainly helped ensure critical drinking water stayed healthy over centuries. Respecting the eels has helped the villagers remain healthy and is why Waii village is still here today.
Snorkelling with the sacred eels
Shinta rubs the eels’ bellies and we’re encouraged to do the same. They aren’t aggressive. Shinta doesn’t over feed them and they feel safe with her.
Joining Pindito tomorrow
Tomorrow we embark on our journey into the Banda Sea. Last time we were met with Blue Whales and Tiger Sharks almost as soon as we left. Who knows what will happen this time … I’ll send updates as often as I can.
Thanks for reading : )
Simon.
